The back of the pants is a dress detail that consists of folding the bottom of the pants outwards, creating a visible and structured fold. We guide you today on this topic because even for your sport outfits or post-training outings, knowing how to play with clothing details is part of a balanced and confident image. Here is what you will discover:
- The concrete differences between reverse and hem
- Reverse types and their applications
- The morphological rules to know
- Frequent mistakes to avoid absolutely
Let's explore this technique together that can transform your dress style.
What is a back of pants?
The back of the trousers is the folding of the fabric outwards, at the base of the trousers, forming a visible strip generally between 3.5 and 5 cm. Unlike an invisible hem, the reverse plays a decorative and stylistic role. Historically associated with costumes, it has become democratized and is now found on chinos, wool pants, and even certain selvedge jeans.
Revers or hem: what difference?
The hem consists of folding the fabric inside the trousers, then sewing it to prevent it from squeaking. This finish remains invisible. The reverse involves an outward fold, creating an apparent band that becomes a decorative element. You can see the hem as a discreet technical necessity, while the reverse is an affirmed aesthetic choice.
Different types of setbacks
The sewn reverse represents the most structured version: after a simple hem, you fold the fabric outwards and fasten the sides with stitches. The rollback, hand made without permanent seam, offers a casual look, ideal on jeans. You will also find the pleated reverse on some dressed trousers, or the buttonhole reverse with a small decorative button. Denim enthusiasts sometimes adopt very high setbacks of 7 to 10 cm to highlight the selvedge edge.
In what cases should we take a backlash?
We recommend the reverse to bring visual character to your outfit. If you have long legs, the reverse creates a visual break that balances your silhouette. Thick fabrics such as wool or tweed are particularly suitable for this technique. Avoid it on short pants or if you have short legs as it can visually fit your silhouette.
What height for a reverse?
The standard height varies between 3.5 and 5 cm. We recommend 4 to 4.5 cm as a safe value. If you are less than 1.70 m tall, prefer less than 4 cm. Conversely, if you are tall, you can afford 5 cm or more. For manual routing, opt for 2.5 to 4 cm, which better corresponds to the casual spirit of this technique.
How to make a setback yourself?
Gather your equipment: trousers, sewing machine, matching thread, chalk, ruler, pins, scissors and iron. Try the pants and mark the desired final length. Draw your reference lines: final length, height of the reverse (4 cm for example), inner fold and cutting line. Leave 2.5 times the height of the reverse as fabric margin. Cut, fold according to your marks, ironing well. Surpose if necessary, sewn to the side and inside seams, then iron for a professional result.
Revers sewn vs rollback: which one to choose?
The sewn reverse offers a structured and elegant finish, perfect for formal occasions. The rollback, hand made, fits jeans and casual outfits. You can unroll at will, while a sewn reverse remains fixed. We recommend sewn for your professional outfits, and rollover for your weekends.
What style of pants lends itself to the reverse?
Pants dressed in wool or thick cotton are the perfect candidates for a sewn reverse. The chinos fit well with a sewn or rolled back. The jeans in raw denim love the twisted reverse that highlights their colorful edge. Avoid the reverse on fitted jogpants or trousers. Straight or slightly wide cuts work better.
Advantages and disadvantages of the reverse
The reverse brings character and visual structure to the bottom of the pants. It balances the long-line silhouettes and shows a concern for detail. You can also temporarily shorten long pants. The disadvantages: it can fit short legs, requires extra fabric, requires sewing skills and is not suitable for all formal contexts.
Revers and morphology: what should be avoided?
If you are less than 1.65 m in length, avoid the more than 4 cm wide reverses that reduce your stature. People with short legs should prefer invisible hem. If your ankles are thick, an overmarked reverse draws attention to this area. Conversely, if you exceed 1.80 m, you can afford generous setbacks. Always adjust the height to your personal proportions.
Common mistakes to avoid with a setback
First mistake: make a setback on pants already too short. Second trap: multiply the rollovers on long pants instead of shortening it correctly. Third fault: choose a disproportionate setback. Fourth mistake: neglect ironing. Fifth evil: try a reverse on too narrow pants. Always take the time to try and adjust before sewing permanently.
Trouser Revers: Current Trends
Current trends value the return to neat finishes. The 4 cm reverses remain the most popular. The emergence of contrasting reverses with visible lining is observed. The preppy style gives to the taste of the day the structured reverses on the pants in flannel. Streetwear culture maintains the rollover on selvedge jeans with high heights.
Should we adopt the back of pants?
Adopting the reverse depends on your personal style and morphology. This finish deserves its place if you appreciate the neat details and possess the adapted silhouette. If you're new, first test the temporary routing on a chino to evaluate the rendering. For great occasions, have a reverse sewn by a retoucher that will adapt the height to your morphology. The reverse remains above all a tool of style to handle with discernment.
